I went to Paris for my birthday with the intention of having my celebration at a particular restaurant. I tried using their online reservation while still in the US...no response. I tried using their online reservation when I got to Paris...no response. I walked to the restaurant to get a dinner reservation. It went like this with the maitre'd:
Bonjour! Je voudrais une réservation pour le dîner ce soir, s'il vous plaît.
Oui madame. combien pour le dîner?
Une, Monsieur.
NON! ...shaking his head at me.
I try again:
Je voudrais une réservation pour le dîner ce soir, s'il vous plaît.
Oui madame. combien pour le dîner?
Une, Monsieur.
NON! ...again shaking his head at me.
Mais c'est mon anniversaire!
Oui madame. combien pour le dîner?
Une, Monsieur.
NON! ...shaking his head at me again.
So then I switched to English which I suspected he knew, and I had no intention of leaving until I got my reservation.
Okay, it's MY birthday and I came to Paris to celebrate MY birthday HERE...and you know why I am HERE, so don't look at me like some crazy American woman because we all come HERE for the same reason. It's MY birthday!
He walks off and has a conversation with who must be the manager. They both are looking at me while speaking rapidly in French, and then finally he returns and says, Oui madame, par ici...as he starts to guide me to a table.
I thank him then clarify that I want the table for later that evening. You should have seen his face! Mortified by my request! I explained that I have been on walkabout all day and needed to go back to my chamber de bonne to change. He points to his watch and says, Une heure! I graciously thank him again, promised I would be back in an hour...and told him it better not be a table by the kitchen. He knew what table I really wanted but it was already reserved which did not surprise me.
I returned exactly on time to the minute, and when I walked in the door, the maitre'd threw his hands out, then clasped them, and said, Mon Dieu! It was because he had not expected this crazy American to be properly dressed for dinner, including my pearls! I got the BEST table in the restaurant...better than the one I had initially wanted (where Keaton and Keanu sat)...and had the most impeccable service with each staff wishing me a happy birthday. The dinner was fabulous...the diners nearby joined in my celebration. And just as I was about to ask for l'addition, that challenging maitre'd brought me a glass of champagne for my birthday with a slight smile.
A lovely Parisian explained to me that one just doesn't dine alone in Paris because dining is SOCIAL. It's not their culture to eat out alone. So THAT was why people stopped talking and eating to stare at me when I sat at my table! At first, it was awkward but gradually I felt as if I were their queen at high court! So I learned a cultural difference (which is the sole point of traveling) but I also got my birthday wish and a celebration that I will never forget.
